Melanin Moments: Pigment Talks #1 - Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

Melanin Moments: Pigment Talks #1 - post-inflammatoire hyperpigmentatie (PIH)

Welcome to Pigment Talks. A new Melanin Moment series full of education, insights, and aha moments.
The entire month of August is dedicated to facial hyperpigmentation. Because those spots, discolorations, or shadowy areas reveal more than you think.

In this series, I'll take you on a journey into the world of pigmentation. Not superficially, but genuinely. Every Sunday, we'll delve deeper into one specific form of hyperpigmentation: what it is, how it develops, and—most importantly—what you can do about it.
You'll receive instruction that feels like a lesson, but in language you can understand. So you don't just use products, but also understand why.

Because knowledge is power. And when it comes to melanin-rich skin, it's time we claim that knowledge ourselves.

Today we start with the most common form of pigmentation: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
You might never have heard that term before. But chances are you've been carrying it around with you for years…

Let's talk pigment.

📚 What exactly is PIH?

PIH stands for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation . But most people just call it dark spots and with good reason.
Of all the forms of pigmentation I see in the clinic and through Melplexion® users, this is by far the most visible and often also the most frustrating form of hyperpigmentation.

Why?
Because you see it immediately. It's usually a solid, dark spot, and your skin tone is even around it. That creates a great contrast, making it stand out even more.

PIH is a form of hyperpigmentation that develops after your skin has experienced inflammation. Examples include:
– a pimple
– a wound
– an ingrown hair
– shaving or waxing
– scratch or pinch
– even a mild allergic reaction

As soon as an inflammation occurs, alarm bells go off in your skin. The melanocytes, your pigment cells, respond by sending extra melanin to the affected area.
Why? To protect. It's a natural reaction.

And I'll tell you WHY it happens faster with melanin-rich skin:
Our skin not only contains more melanin, but also more active melanocytes. These respond faster and produce more intense pigment when something is out of balance, such as inflammation or damage.
Think of it as overzealous security: well-intentioned, but sometimes too alert.

That's why you often see dark spots develop more quickly after a pimple or wound with melanin-rich skin, while someone with lighter skin might only experience redness.

🧠 What's happening in your skin?

  1. Damage or inflammation occurs → the skin sends an “SOS signal”

  2. Melanocytes respond with extra pigment production → as protection

  3. That pigment ends up in the upper layers of the skin

  4. The inflammation disappears… but the pigment remains

The result: a dark spot where there used to be something active.
And that stain can linger for months, especially if you do nothing about it (or do it wrong).

🧩 Why specifically for melanin-rich skin?

As I mentioned before, melanin-rich skin naturally responds faster and more vigorously to inflammation. The melanocytes are more alert and immediately send pigment to damaged areas, aiming for protection.

And that's a beautiful thing in itself. Your skin wants to help you. It means well.

Only… if you don't know how to deal with that reaction, it can become frustrating. Because instead of calm, you suddenly see dark spots that last much longer than the inflammation itself.

So you don't necessarily get more acne or more problems than someone with lighter skin, but you are more likely to have pigment left over. And that's often confused with "acne." In reality, it's scar pigment. Remnants of a process that's essentially already over, but still visible on your skin.

🚫 What makes PIH worse?

There are a few things that can unintentionally worsen PIH or cause it to linger much longer than necessary. And believe me, I see this happen all the time. So let's just be honest:

☀️ Sun
One three-letter word I can scream at the top of my lungs every single day: SUN. SUN. SUNNNNNNN.
Seriously, don't underestimate the sun. If you don't protect your skin, your melanocytes think, "Okay, we need to protect this spot extra!"
And yes, there's even more pigment. If you go out in the sun with PIH without SPF, you're essentially giving that spot a permanent appearance. And you don't want that.

🙅🏾Rubbing, scratching or pinching
I get it. Sometimes you feel something and just want it to go away. But anything that irritates or damages you triggers your skin to react with pigment again. It's literally an invitation for your melanocytes to spring back into action. So don't do it.

🌿 Scrubs or peels that are too aggressive
Be careful what you scrub with. Synthetic granules can damage your skin without you even realizing it, which is disastrous for PIH.
That's why we use ground olive seeds in our Natural Scrub . They provide gentle yet effective exfoliation, without causing micro-tears or overstimulation.

💧 Insufficient hydration (from outside and inside)
Drink your water!! Seriously. Water is your skin's friend, your cell renewer, your recovery partner.
Without enough moisture, your skin remains tough, sluggish, and dull. Your skin cells are less able to renew themselves, causing pigment to simply... stick.

🌙 No rest in your routine
A different serum every day? Trying a new trend you saw on TikTok? Understandable, but your skin will lose its way.
PIH needs calm. Repetition. An approach that inspires confidence. Not panic or chaos. Give your skin that stability; it will thank you for it.

✅ What does help?

PIH takes time, but you can certainly support the process – in a way that respects and understands the skin.
What I often advise at PIH isn't complicated. But it does require patience, love, and consistency.

☀️ Daily protection
You should protect your skin 365 days a year, even when it's cloudy, even when you're indoors.
UV rays and even heat radiation can activate pigment cells. And PIH happens to be an area where melanin cells are already overactive.
Without protection you are constantly feeding those dark spots with “sun food”.

🌿 Ingredients that keep melanocytes calm
Not every ingredient has to be aggressive to be effective. Some ingredients actually have a calming effect on your pigment cells.
Curcumin from turmeric helps inhibit pigment reactions and has an anti-inflammatory effect
Vitamin C helps even out your skin tone and protects against free radicals
Licorice root extract is a calming agent for the skin and addresses mild pigment shifts

🚫 No bleaching products
This is a sensitive topic, and I understand that. But let's be honest: bleaching products disrupt your entire melanin production. Not just in the area you want to lighten.
This can lead to blemishes, patchy undertones, or even permanent damage. The goal isn't to erase your pigment, but to restore its balance.

🌸 Regularity and softness
Pigment wants no panic. No experiments. No pressure.
What PIH needs is rest: a simple, repetitive routine that tells your skin the same thing day after day: "You are safe. You can recover."
So choose gentle cleansing, moisturizing care, and protective SPF, and stick with it. Not because it's fast, but because it works.

🗣️ The 6 Biggest Myths About PIH (That I Hear Almost Weekly)

I see it in the clinic, I read it in DMs, and sometimes even from people in the industry: confusion about pigment is everywhere.
And honestly? Understandable. Because if no one really explains what's happening, you'll start making connections yourself. Only... not everything adds up.
That's why I'm going to take you through the six most common myths about PIH. It's a bit much, but it's important for a good overall picture.

“I keep getting pimples so it’s not working.”
PIH is the scar. Acne is the inflammation. These two can occur simultaneously on your skin, but each requires its own approach. Just because you still have pimples doesn't mean your pigmentation treatment isn't working. It simply means your skin is working on multiple fronts simultaneously.

❌ “It's just dirty, right?”
No. PIH is in your skin. It's not makeup residue, sebum, or a flake you can wipe away. It's a pigment buildup deep in the upper layers of your skin. It's a reaction to inflammation. You can't "wash it away."

❌ “Scrubbing does help, right?”
Sometimes it may seem like your skin looks lighter after a vigorous scrub, but this is often temporary – and in some cases even harmful.
On sensitive or recovering skin, scrubbing can actually trigger PIH. That's why at Melplexion® we only use gentle, plant-based scrubs (such as ground olive seed), which don't abrade but support the skin.

❌ “I don’t need SPF, I don’t burn anyway.”
I hear this so often, and I understand where it comes from. But it's not true. You don't need to burn to build pigment.
Sunlight activates your pigment cells even without redness. And if you already have PIH, you're giving that spot a reason to get even darker.
SPF isn't just protection, it's prevention.

❌ “If the pigment is deep, nothing more can be done.”
False. Deeper pigmentation may be more persistent, but it's not unchangeable. With consistency, rest, and the right care, you can definitely soften or fade pigmentation. It might not "go away" in a week, but that doesn't mean your skin is stagnant.

❌ “If it stings, it works.”
No. A tingling sensation isn't proof of effectiveness. In fact, with melanin-rich skin, a tingling sensation is often a sign of irritation and therefore a risk of… that's right: more PIH.
Work with your skin, not against your skin.

✨ Finally

Yes, this was a long blog post. And honestly? This whole Pigment Talks series is getting a bit more extensive than you might be used to. But that's because I want you to truly learn.
Hyperpigmentation is one of the biggest and most talked about skin concerns within our community and it's time we understand it, inside and out.

I hope that after today you will not only know what PIH is, but also understand why your skin reacts this way, and what you can do about it with gentleness and knowledge.

Have any questions? Feel free to leave them in the comments below. I'm reading along and happy to help.

Next week, we'll delve into another type of pigmentation: melasma . A form deeply connected to hormones, sun, and stress, it requires a completely different approach than PIH.

Keep learning, keep shining – until the next Pigment Talk! 💛
Love,
Angela

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