Welcome back to Pigment Talks. The blog series where I explain everything about facial hyperpigmentation. No superficial tips, but truly understanding what's going on.

Last week I told you about PIH, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This is the form of pigmentation that develops after your skin has experienced inflammation. Think of a pimple, a wound, or even an ingrown hair. The result? A sharply defined, dark spot on otherwise calm skin. Highly visible, and often very frustrating.

This week I'll take you through melasma. A pigmented skin condition that works very differently. Melasma doesn't develop after external damage, but rather from within. It's directly related to hormones, sunlight, or even stress. And that often makes it more difficult to recognize and treat.

After reading this blog, you'll know exactly what melasma is, how to recognize it, what its triggers are, and how to properly understand the difference between it and PIH. This will help you understand what your skin needs and why.

Let's talk pigment.

💭 What is melasma anyway?

Melasma—you may have heard the term before, or perhaps you only recognize it as that faint discoloration on your face that just won't go away. It's also called the pregnancy mask , because it often occurs during or after pregnancy. But women who have never been pregnant can also experience it.

Melasma usually presents as a vague, almost cloudy discoloration. It is often seen:

• on the cheeks

• the forehead

• the upper lip

• or along the jawline

What's striking is that it's often symmetrical, meaning it's roughly the same on both sides of your face. And unlike PIH, with melasma you don't see any distinct borders. It looks more like a shadow cast over that part of your skin.

Melasma is most common in women, and even more so in women with melanin-rich skin. And that's no coincidence; we'll get to that shortly.

🚫 What makes melasma worse?

Melasma doesn't start with a pimple or a wound, but develops from within. The biggest trigger? Hormones.

When your hormones are active, for example, during pregnancy, due to birth control pills, or due to an imbalance, your pigment cells (melanocytes) also become more active. Why? Because your body thinks your skin needs extra protection. Pigment acts as a natural shield against light and damage. So the more active your hormones, the harder your skin tries to produce pigment.

In people with melanin-rich skin, this process often occurs faster and more intensely. The melanocytes react more sensitively, and this is visible as a buildup of pigment in certain areas of the face.

🔎 Example:
Imagine you've just started taking the pill. Your body's hormonal imbalance is a bit off. Meanwhile, you're walking in the sun every day without protection. Your skin thinks, "Protect!" and sends extra pigment to your face. Especially on your cheeks or upper lip, you suddenly see a haze appear. It's as if it just happened, but it had been lurking for a while.

That is why melasma is often persistent: it is deeper, is quickly triggered again and therefore requires more than just a superficial approach.

🌱 What really helps with melasma?

Melasma requires a different approach than PIH. Because it's deeply rooted and strongly influenced by internal factors like hormones, treating it externally alone isn't enough. You need to restore calm to your skin, and that sometimes even starts from within. Here are some tips that really make a difference:

☀️ Sun protection = daily basis, always.
You'll see this advice in every Pigment Talk, and for good reason. UV radiation is the biggest trigger for pigment cells. With melasma, this effect is even stronger: a single sunny day without protection can undo weeks of progress. Consider SPF a part of your life (yes, that sounds a bit much), not just your skincare. Every day. Always. Especially if you have melasma, this is a no-brainer.

🧠 Stress = hormonal unrest = pigment boost
Stress is one of the most underestimated causes of melasma. When you experience prolonged stress, your body produces more cortisol. This not only causes mental unrest but also hormonal imbalances.
The result? Your melanocytes are again signaled to produce extra pigment. It's as if they're trying to protect your skin from a threat. That's why you often see melasma worsen during periods of stress, even if you haven't changed your skincare routine.
So don't just pay attention to what you wear, but also to how you live.

🧬 Work on hormonal balance & body insight
Melasma often develops due to hormonal fluctuations, such as pregnancy, birth control pills, or menopause. Try to understand your own rhythm. Keep track of when your spots worsen and whether this coincides with, for example, your period, diet, or mood. With this knowledge, you can take a more preventative approach instead of always correcting them after the fact.

💛 Nourishing rest instead of aggressive action
The more you attack your skin with harsh acids or bleaching agents, the greater the chance it will "defend" itself with even more pigment. Melasma doesn't need a harsh approach, but a caring one.

Instead, choose ingredients that soothe the skin and help the melanocytes relax, such as:

• Curcumin (from turmeric) – has anti-inflammatory and pigment-regulating properties

• Centella Asiatica – supports skin recovery and soothes overstimulated areas

• Honey – softens, hydrates and protects the skin barrier

• Aloe vera – cooling, moisturizing and soothing for sensitive skin

These ingredients help your skin recover without forcing it. Rest really works. It's just a bit quieter than the quick promises of the beauty world.

🔁 Learn to recognize patterns
Melasma comes and goes in waves. You often see it worsen with heat, sun, stress, or hormonal surges. By actively tracking this, for example, in a skin diary, you'll start to connect the dots. And that strengthens your approach because you're no longer playing catch-up.

Melasma requires attention, self-awareness, and a gentle approach. It's not a skin problem you can brush away, but a signal that requires understanding.

🧠 Four misconceptions about melasma that you really need to know

❌ “Melasma is on the skin, so I treat it on the skin.”
Melasma is on the skin, but it originates from within . It's not a superficial pigment spot like PIH, but a deeper reaction triggered by hormones, stress, and heat. So you can apply it every day, but if you don't understand its origins, it will keep coming back. Real improvement starts with understanding, not just with products.

❌ “The pigment is stuck in one place.”
Nope. Melasma moves. It can shift, spread, or deepen depending on your hormones, the seasons, or even your lifestyle. You often see it on the cheeks, forehead, or upper lip, but the pattern can change. That's why it's so important to keep monitoring your skin. What worked yesterday might not be enough tomorrow.

❌ “Melasma is a skin problem.”
Melasma feels like a problem, but it's actually a signal . Your skin is trying to protect you. Only, that protective mechanism has become a bit overzealous. The dark spots aren't a problem, but a reaction. And that suddenly makes it completely different: you don't have to punish or bleach them, but guide them toward calm.

❌ “I don't see any improvement, so this doesn't work for me.”
If there's one sentence I hear and read too often, even in our DMs, it's this one. And I understand. Melasma requires patience. You don't always see a difference right away, and that can be frustrating. But change is possible, just often in months, not days. So be kind to your skin, persevere, and keep following what works for you. That's the real way forward.

Wow, if you've read this far: give yourself a round of applause.
Melasma isn't just a complex topic; it's also a sensitive one. Because it affects your face. Your self-image. And sometimes even your patience.

But if there's one thing I want to leave you with, it's this:
You're not alone. And no, you're not imagining it. Those spots are persistent. But that doesn't mean you're powerless.

With knowledge, a balanced skin routine, and protection (sun, stress, hormones!), you can learn to understand melasma. And once you understand what your skin is doing and why, you can provide more targeted support.

So, before we wrap up these Melanin Moments, a quick recap.
We have now covered two major forms of hyperpigmentation:

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) – pigmentation that develops after inflammation, such as pimples, wounds, or irritation. It's particularly frustrating because of the sharp contrast with your normal skin color. (Last week)
✨ Melasma – deeper pigmentation, often influenced by hormones, sun, and stress. Less defined, but just as persistent.

Both have their own triggers, approaches, and pitfalls. And I hope you now better understand why they arise and what you can do about them.

But we're not done yet.

In the coming weeks we'll delve into three more recognizable shapes:
☀️ Sun spots (including age spots)
🧴 Product-related pigmentation (such as bleaching and perfume sensitivity)
👁️ Periorbital & perioral pigmentation (around the eyes and mouth. So recognizable, so often forgotten)

It will be educational, recognizable and enlightening.

Keep learning, keep shining – until the next Melanin Moment! 💛
Love,
Angela